Besalú Besalú is a small village in La Garrotxa (Girona), where the stones tell stories and time seems to move more slowly. Simply crossing its famous Romanesque bridge transports you to another era. The Fluvià River flows quietly below, towers stand guard above, and suddenly, the noise of the city feels far away.
Originally known as Bisuldunum, it was a fortress between two rivers — the Fluvià to the south and the Capellades to the north. It was once the seat of an important independent county and boasts a medieval historic and artistic complex considered one of the best preserved in Catalonia.
Among its treasures are the church of the monastery of Sant Pere (12th century), remarkable for the originality of its ambulatory; the church of Sant Vicenç (12th century), which features a Gothic side chapel dedicated to the True Cross; the facade of the former hospital church of Sant Julià (12th century); the Casa Cornellà, a Romanesque house from the 12th century; and the Gothic Hall of the Royal Curia. The old Jewish Quarter is particularly noteworthy, especially the Miqvé, or ritual bathhouse.
Morning: Crossing the Bridge into the Past
The best time to arrive is early, when the sun begins to illuminate the golden stones of the bridge. At that hour, Besalú is still half asleep, and you can walk in silence, listening to the sound of the water and the echo of your footsteps on the cobblestones.
The Besalú Bridge, declared a Historic-Artistic Monument in 1954, is a Romanesque bridge with a distinctive angular shape and seven uneven arches resting on pillars, many built directly on the bedrock, with cutwaters. It is, quite simply, majestic.
Once across the bridge, inside the old town, the best thing to do is get lost. The streets are narrow, the façades hold centuries of history, and every corner has something to catch your eye: a weathered wooden door, a craft shop, or a flower-filled window.
The church of Sant Pere, with its Romanesque serenity, is a must-visit. Step inside, take a deep breath, and let the light filtering through the windows surround you. If you love history, don’t miss the old Jewish Quarter and the Miqvé, or ritual bathhouse, along with the one in Girona, it is the only Jewish bathhouse discovered so far in the Iberian Peninsula. It’s a stone building with a barrel vault, typically Romanesque, dating back to the 12th century.
And if you feel like taking a break, sit at one of the terraces in the main square. Order a coffee, watch people go by, and let the calm of the village sink in.
Midday: Enjoying Catalan Cuisine with Views of the Majestic Bridge
After a morning of wandering, it’s time to enjoy Besalú’s other great treasure: Catalan cuisine and its local restaurants. We have our favorite spot, the Restaurant El Pont Vell, located right at the foot of the bridge with views over the river. It’s one of those places where the food is excellent, and the atmosphere is even better. The restaurant is featured among the TOP recommendations by Tastant Catalunya.
Chef Robert Mora has been leading the kitchen for over a decade, offering a heartfelt tribute to Catalan tradition. Everything here tastes of the region: free-range meats, seasonal vegetables, beautifully crafted dishes, and a selection of wines from the Empordà.
If the weather is pleasant, choose the terrace without hesitation. Dining in front of the bridge, listening to the murmur of the river while enjoying a fine local wine, is one of those experiences that stays with you.
More info https://www.tastantcatalunya.cat/es/gastronomia-es/top-restaurantes/restaurante-el-pont-vell-besalu
Afternoon: Letting yourself drift
The afternoon in Besalú invites slow wandering. You can return to the bridge to see it from another angle, for instance, from the riverbank. It’s stunning how the light transforms it, and its reflection in the water is unforgettable.
You can also explore the artisan shops scattered throughout the old town and pick up some souvenirs or local products.
If you’re in the mood for nature, just a few kilometers away lie the volcanic landscapes of La Garrotxa and the Fageda d’en Jordà beech forest, perfect for a full-day trip or a gentle walk through peaceful woodland paths.
If you prefer to stay, simply find a bench by the river or a terrace where you can watch as the village turns golden in the fading light. When the sun sets, Besalú becomes even more magical, the lights slowly come on, the bridge reflects in the water, and the air smells of old stone and serenity.
Getting There & Tips
📍 Where it is: Besalú, comarca de la Garrotxa (Girona)
🚗 How to get there: About 30 minutes from Girona and 90 minutes from Barcelona. The best way to visit is by car for greater flexibility.
🍽️ Where to eat: Restaurant El Pont Vell, Carrer del Pont Vell, 24 Traditional Catalan cuisine with local products, a family atmosphere, and spectacular views.
📷 What to see: The Romanesque bridge, the Miqvé, the church of Sant Pere, and the views from the Fluvià River.
☀️ Best time to visit: Spring and autumn, when the light is softer and there are fewer visitors.